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What do you do when you need to control an
electrical device?

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Most of the time we use simple switches.

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Any device, be it a light bulb, desk fan, or toaster oven

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needs to be part of a complete breakfast— 
sorry, circuit in order for it to work,

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so if we put a break somewhere in the circuit…

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then it’s no longer complete and power cannot flow through it.

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And that’s all that most switches do:

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a light switch like this is really just two
weird little bits of wire that come together in the middle,

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and when the plastic toggle is moved to the “off” position,

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they’re pulled apart so power cannot flow through the switch anymore.

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Ideally that happens with a snap-action to minimize arcing,

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and that’s why most switches make a clicking noise,

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but that’s a topic for another video that I’ve already made.

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But what if you want to control something… big?

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A light switch can only break 15, maybe 20 amps of current,
and there’s a lot of stuff that needs more than that.

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Plus, sometimes you have to control something
that runs at a higher voltage, or possibly even uses more phases.

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And what if you want to automate whatever
it is you’re powering with some kind of control system?

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Looks like you’re gonna need a contactor.

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Contactors are the unsung heroes of industrial equipment control.

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They’ve come up a few times on this channel,

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but I’ve never really explained what they are
and why they’re so useful in so many applications.

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Time to fix that!

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Contactors aren’t something you typically find inside the home...

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except for that one just outside — don't worry, we’ll get there.

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A contactor does what it sounds like it does:

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it decides whether there’s contactor not.

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I’m sorry.

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This is a typical two-pole contactor for controlling single-phase loads.

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Notice that there are six electrical connections:

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we have two up top, two down below,
and another smaller pair on the sides of it.

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If I pry this cover off the face of the contactor,

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at first glance what we find appears to be two large copper links
straight from the top connections to the bottom connections,

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but looking from an angle reveals that the center section of
copper is actually floating above the rest.

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Right now, there’s a gap between the top and bottom terminals,

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so this contactor is open and power cannot flow through it.

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That floating middle section can move, though.

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If I push down on one of these little rectangles,
the center links come into contact with the top and bottom links.

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When in this position, power can flow through the contactor.

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Normally, though, it’s not a finger that pushes the contacts together -

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that role is usually handled by an electromagnet.

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And that’s what the terminals on the sides are for.

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Send the appropriate voltage to those terminals,

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and the electromagnet inside pulls down on the center section 
by way of these arches, which bridges the gap like so.

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[CLACK]

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A contactor in this state is often said to be “pulled in,”

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and when the cover is installed the recess created by the moving
contacts provides a visual indicator of the contactor’s current state.

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When power is removed from the electromagnet, of course,
we need the contacts to open back up.

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[THUNK]

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That’s done with not one, but three springs.

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The first is sandwiched between the two cores of the electromagnet
and keeps them physically separated unless the magnet has power.

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That spring is pretty weak, though, so to ensure the separation
of the electrical contacts happens very quickly,

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these additional springs between the arches and the center links become compressed when the contactor is pulled in.

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Once released, they provide an inertial kick
by quickly flinging the arches away at high speed,

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and once they’re extended enough to catch the copper links,

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well they get yanked away and off the contacts just as quickly.

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Now, some of you might be thinking,

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“Wait a minute. So this thing is just an overgrown relay?”
and to you’d I say:

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yeah, pretty much.

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But there are some differences.

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For a start, most relays offer both normally open and normally closed contacts,

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meaning they might actually disconnect something from power when energized,
or even switch power from one path to another.

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Often incorporating multiple sets of each contact type,

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relays can perform fairly complex switching tasks when combined with other circuitry.

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But a contactor is generally just a big power switch.

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And that’s the other difference: 
relays usually aren’t designed to carry much current or handle high voltages,

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but contactors can and do - that’s why it’s so bulky.

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The large gap maintained between the contact points when the contactor is open

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allows it to handle a maximum of 600 volts AC -
much more than a typical relay.

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On top of that,
the thick copper links inside allow this contactor to carry up to 50 amps continuously

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(or 40 amps if it’s not a resistive load).

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And on top of that, its contact points are designed to withstand arcing caused by much higher temporary current spikes,

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like the kind you encounter when switching on
large inductive loads such as motors.

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That’s what the LRA figure is for - that stands for locked rotor amps.

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Induction motors, by far the most common
motor type that this fella will control,

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pull very large amounts of current if the rotor cannot move - or is locked.

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(the rotor is the spinny bit)

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And whenever a motor is started from a stop,
for a brief moment it will pull locked rotor amps -

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which is often several times what it pulls when at operating speed.

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As an example, the compressor in this air conditioner normally draws 12.8 amps at its rated load

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(that’s rated load amps)

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but its locked rotor amp draw is 67.8.

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That really high initial current draw is the reason your lights dim 
for just a moment when your air conditioner switches on.

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Since this can handle a motor that might draw
a whopping 240 amps at startup,

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it sure seems like a decent fit for controlling an air conditioner.

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And wouldn’t ya know it, if we take a peek
inside the electrical cabinet of this air conditioner

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what should we find but…

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a contactor!

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And some other stuff, but don’t worry about all that.

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This contactor is some kinda budget model
that only breaks one leg of the circuit.

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It’s built just like the one we’ve been looking at,

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but the right half of it has turned into a simple link
permanently connecting the top and bottom.

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I can only imagine this is very slightly cheaper.

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Now, here’s the important bit:

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the contactor, or more specifically the gap between its contacts,

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is literally the only thing keeping this air conditioner from running right now.

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Unless you bother to shut off the breaker to it in the winter time,

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the wires on the input side of the contactor
are live at 240V all the time.

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And, since this has this weird bargain-basement single-pole contactor,

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that means every electrical connection in this device
always has 120V potential on it.

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Neat!

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Anyway, if I take a high-tech insulated poking device
and press in on the contactor’s pressy bit

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[BRRGSHSSWMMMMAHHHHHHHH]

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it starts right up.

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Weird, right?

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That contactor really is the only control mechanism in this air conditioner.

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Yeah, this is about as basic an air conditioner as you can get,

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so mediocre it can’t be legally installed in the Southwest!

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But there’s plenty of these machines out there.

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Really, it’s just two motors: a big one in the compressor,
and a smaller one for the condenser fan.

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They both run directly from AC power, and the unit can only ever be on or off, so a simple contactor is all we need.

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[CLACK and then the air conditioner starting]

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But of course, something needs to turn that contactor on
in order to turn the air conditioner on.

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What would that be?

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Well, did you catch that the contactor we've been looking at
has a coil meant to run at 24V AC?

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That might seem like a weird choice,
but that is in fact a very common coil voltage.

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See, although the air conditioner is effectively a standalone device
with its own power supply,

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it needs to cooperate with the rest of the HVAC system it’s a part of.

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In this case, that’s a gas-fired furnace,

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and the control board that operates the furnace
just so happens to run on 24V AC.

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That is in fact the de-facto control voltage in the HVAC world.

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So, then, the furnace supplies power to the contactor
when it wants the air conditioner to run, right?

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Well, only sort of.

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One of the main reasons HVAC systems operate at this low control voltage

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is that we can safely send it through inexpensive thermostat
wire that snakes around wherever it needs to go.

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With a basic four-wire system, the furnace sends its 24V out to a thermostat which can then return it on one of the other three wires:

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one to signal a heating request,

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another for the blower fan,

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and the third for cooling.

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The furnace will respond accordingly to whatever signal it gets back.

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But when the thermostat sends a cooling call,
although it does send 24V back to the furnace on the yellow wire,

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from there it goes right to the contactor outside.

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Take a look, I’ve shut the power off to the air conditioner 
because what I’m about to do is very not good for it.

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If I take the leads of a multimeter set to current
(so basically a jumper wire)

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and do this…

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here’s what’s happening outside.

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[rapid and loud clicking and clacking]

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What I’m doing here is taking the 24V from the red wire
and sending it back on the yellow wire.

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Once it makes it back to the furnace’s control board,

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it becomes spliced with a second wire.

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This one is part of an entirely different run of thermostat wire that follows the refrigerant lineset of the air conditioner all the way outside.

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Once there, it’s wired to the contactor’s coil.

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All a thermostat does when it calls for cooling
is connect these two wires together

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which sends power to this contactor which in turn
sends power to the compressor and condenser fan motor.

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So it is in fact the thermostat which is in
direct control of whether the air conditioner runs or not.

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Of course, the furnace is supplying the 24V AC,
so without it the contactor wouldn’t do anything.

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And this more modern furnace does pay attention
to whether there’s power coming back on the Y terminal

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so it can run the blower motor at a different speed
between fan-only and cooling calls.

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But a lot of older systems had no idea whether
the air conditioner was running or not.

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Thermostats generally send power on both the Y terminal
and the G terminal when calling for cooling,

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and power on G will turn on the blower fan.

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So in older setups, as far as the furnace or air handler knew

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it was just supposed to be running the fan.

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It had no idea why.

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So by now, I’m sure you get the point of having that contactor.

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It allows us to switch on the big and power-hungry air conditioner

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with a low-voltage signal wire controlled by a thermostat.

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But there are actually more benefits to this
approach than it may seem.

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If you look closely at the thermostat wiring
once it enters the air conditioner,

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you’ll notice that it’s not directly connected to the contactor.

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It actually heads inside to a pressure switch
attached to the refrigerant lines.

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That switch is normally closed,

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but if the refrigerant pressure should get too high it will open
 and break the circuit powering the contactor.

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That will of course shut off the air conditioner,
protecting its compressor from damage.

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More sophisticated systems might have multiple
safety switches all arranged in series

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so that if any one of them opens, the contactor will, too,
and thus power is removed from the compressors or whatever else.

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Without the help of a contactor, every one of those safety devices

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would have to break the full operating current of the motors - 
which is not only difficult for a switch to do,

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but would also require a maze of heavy-gauge
wiring capable of handling the full load of the machine

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to stop by and run through every safety device.

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Anyway, before we get too far lost in HVAC trivia,

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I do want to go back to that current-handling ability of the contactor.

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Remember the locked rotor amps thing?

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Well, I’ve got a fancy multimeter that can
tell us the current spike that the contactor has to deal with.

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[unit switches on]

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That’s not quite as high as the LRA on the data plate, 
but 55.1 amps is still quite a spike!

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Thanks to the fast action of the contacts, though, hardly any arcing occurs.

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Hardly any isn’t “none,” though, and already we can see pitting on the contacts.

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These don’t last forever, and the need to replace a contactor here and there
is certainly not out of the question.

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It could be much worse, though.

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If I use my high-tech insulated poking device, 
I can create some gnarly arcing -

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especially because right now the compressor’s rotor is in fact locked
as it can’t overcome the high pressure in the system right now.

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You can hear it humming but it's not turning.

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[abnormal buzzing and humming when contactor is pushed in]

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This is why modern thermostats might delay
the startup of your air conditioner.

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The compressor needs some time for the refrigerant
pressures to equalize or it may not be able to start.

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And if left powered on in this locked state
for any length of time,

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that can damage the compressor as its motor windings
 will get very hot very quickly.

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The compressor usually has its own overload protection,
so it’s generally not too much of a concern,

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and the circuit breaker protecting this circuit would
probably trip before that even comes into play but

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that’s annoying if nothing else so

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pretty much any electronic thermostat will enforce a delay period
between the last shutdown and the next startup.

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But I said we wouldn’t get lost in HVAC trivia.

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Of course, there are many other things one can do with a contactor
besides just turn on an air conditioner.

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For a start, 24V is by no means the only option for the coil voltage.

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In fact, through the Magic of Buying Two of Them,

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I have a 120V contactor right here.

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This is nearly identical to the first one,
but the coil runs on ordinary AC power.

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This could be useful to, say, turn on some high-voltage overhead lighting in a gymnasium or warehouse with an ordinary light switch.

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Or perhaps create some sort of mystery box
for controlling whether a water heater has power or not.

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I’m still not letting you look inside of there, though.

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There are plenty of contactors that have three poles
rather than just the two you see here,

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and allows them to send power to large three-phase motors,

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like for instance exhaust fans in a commercial kitchen.

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With a 120V control coil, you could wire that contactor
(or multiple contactors) up with the room lights

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to ensure that those fans run whenever the kitchen is occupied.

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And inside really big HVAC systems with three-phase compressors,

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you’ll find them there, too, though usually with 24V coils.

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Really, any time you need to control a big electrical device,
a contactor is probably doing the gruntwork.

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And for really big motors, there’s a subset of contactors
known as motor starters.

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00:15:33,149 --> 00:15:37,589
Those might be as simple as a conventional contactor
which can monitor current flow

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and will shut down the motor if it exceeds a certain threshold.

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00:15:41,467 --> 00:15:49,365
But it might also involve multiple contactors that can dynamically rewire a motor between two configurations.

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00:15:49,365 --> 00:15:54,000
Really gigantic three-phase motors pull so
much current from a stop

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that it’s effectively impossible to start them
by simply applying power as normal.

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00:15:59,483 --> 00:16:06,440
So instead, the motor is temporarily run with
its windings wired in a star- or Y-configuration

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00:16:06,440 --> 00:16:10,427
which limits its starting current at the expense of reducing torque.

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00:16:10,427 --> 00:16:14,866
Once it’s up to a predetermined speed and
it can safely run at its full power,

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00:16:14,866 --> 00:16:18,268
the motor’s windings are switched to a delta configuration,

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00:16:18,268 --> 00:16:25,534
and that’s all done with some contactors and timers which form 
a star-delta (or Y-delta) motor starter.

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But why stop at just three poles?

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One of my favorite contactors is the answer to a question I’ve long had:

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how do big buildings turn on so many lights at the same time?

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Think of, like, a hotel with a parking lot, 
exterior wall sconces, signage, bollard lights in pathways,

224
00:16:44,169 --> 00:16:50,950
and somehow all of those lights, even though they’re
all over the building and can’t possibly be on the same circuits,

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are automatically coming on together at dusk.

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How’s that happening?

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Well, with one of these gnarly contactors.

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You can have perhaps a dozen circuits all controlled by this thing,

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they don’t even need to be the same voltage,

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00:17:05,544 --> 00:17:09,796
and it can be hooked up to either a mechanical timer or a photocell.

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00:17:09,796 --> 00:17:13,982
One of these might even control the lights in a large store or warehouse,

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allowing you to switch on dozens of kilowatts of lighting
with just a single ordinary light switch.

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And that really gets to the heart of what contactors do.

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Like relays, they are electrically-operated
switches that we can do pretty much anything with.

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But they’re just more focused on raw power-handling
ability than they are speed or complexity.

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00:17:35,278 --> 00:17:40,913
And while I’ve talked about a few types that are out there,
trust me there are plenty more.

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Take a look at speed control for locomotive
DC traction motors if you want to see some wild contactor configurations.

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The role of the contactor is arguably changing, though.

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00:17:52,320 --> 00:17:55,948
While this one is doing a fine job of controlling my air conditioner,

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the on-or-off nature of it is quite limiting.

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00:17:59,730 --> 00:18:02,934
The compressor is just a simple AC induction motor,

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and with a contactor the only thing we can feed to it is
raw 240V AC power at 60 Hz,

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so the motor will only ever run at the two speeds of high or off.

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00:18:15,630 --> 00:18:22,935
But we are starting to see variable frequency drives proliferate into more and more
air conditioning, heat pump, and refrigeration systems.

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They’ve been common on mini-splits for many years now,
often marketed as an “inverter” compressor.

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And these systems allow us to spin the motors
at virtually any speed we want by, in essence,

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creating our own flavor of AC voltage with fancy electronicals.

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Some might view this as a needless layer of complexity,

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but when we can spin the compressor (and fans) and any arbitrary speed,

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we can optimize the device’s operating efficiency
for any given load which can save a lot of energy.

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Yeah it’s not strictly necessary,

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but the operating characteristics of a refrigeration system change
depending on the temperatures both inside and out.

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In this footage, it was only mildly warm outside
and inside the temperature was actually kinda chilly.

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And with such a small load the air conditioner was only drawing about 7 amps.

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Keep in mind that its rated load, when including the fan,
should be somewhere north of 13 amps.

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The compressor just isn’t working that hard
because the refrigerant pressures it’s fighting against are quite low.

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But because the compressor can only operate at full speed,
it’s always trying to pump the same volume of refrigerant.

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Yes, it’s using less power than it would
if it were really hot out since the pressures are lower,

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but it could be using even less to deliver the same amount of cooling
if it could simply slow itself down.

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That would reduce pumping and frictional losses in the compressor,

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and we could even slow down the condenser fan
because we don’t need as much heat transfer.

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Over the lifetime of the air conditioner,

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there’s a lot of energy being left on the table
if you can’t dynamically adjust for load conditions.

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And that’s why this thing is only rated at 14 SEER
while my cheap mini-split attains 19 SEER.

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Of course, the downside is that the VFD boards
required for variable-speed compressoring

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are a lot more expensive than contactors.

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These things cost about $15 bucks retail,

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and a replacement inverter board is, uh,

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more than that.

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It’s not impossible to design a very robust
inverter board that should last the life of an air conditioner or heat pump,

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and I’m happy to report that my cheap mini split
is still pumping just fine after four winters now.

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But I do get the concern.

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In a similar vein, electromechanical contactors
like these are starting to become displaced by solid-state contactors.

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Rather than rely on an electromagnet and physical
movement of copper links,

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those devices use electronic components like transistors or triacs
to turn the flow of power on and off.

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They are at least in theory more robust than
an electromechanical device,

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but they are a lot more expensive and aren’t suitable
for every application.

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It is effectively the same device,
just with different technology inside of it,

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but it is interesting to note.

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However, just because we might be using contactors less as a means of control

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doesn’t mean we’re giving them up altogether.

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Increasingly, we see them getting used as
isolation devices that are mainly used for safety.

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As I talked about in my video on electric
vehicle supply equipment,

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your standard AC car charger has a contactor inside of it to
control whether the charge cord has voltage on it or not.

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That contactor is really the only active component
in one of these chargers,

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and the incoming power wires get connected
straight through to the charge cable when it’s pulled in.

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But this contactor shouldn’t ever operate
under load except in an emergency.

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It will close before the car starts drawing power,

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00:22:02,930 --> 00:22:10,226
and a switch in the charger handle will signal to the car
to immediately stop pulling current when you reach to unplug it,

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so the load will instantly drop off before the contactor opens.

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00:22:14,491 --> 00:22:18,857
It’s really only there to kill power to
the cord when it’s not plugged into a car

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(or on the rare occasion it detects a fault).

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00:22:22,334 --> 00:22:28,706
And actually, an electric car’s battery pack 
has some very important contactors inside of it.

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When it’s not turned on, we want to be able to isolate
the high-voltage battery from the rest of the car.

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That’s important not only for safety

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but also keeps the high voltage battery from discharging
when the car’s powered off

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(at least assuming the manufacturer has figured that part out)

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00:22:44,972 --> 00:22:46,644
*cough*
Rivian

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So, the battery’s power output is run through some big, beefy DC contactors

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that can physically disconnect the battery cells from the pack’s power terminals.

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And those contactors are controlled by the car’s low-voltage system.

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00:23:01,157 --> 00:23:07,169
Electric and hybrid cars have a low-voltage system
that’s basically no different from an ordinary car.

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In fact plenty of EVs have a plain ol’ 12 volt lead acid battery in there somewhere,

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and that battery is what closes in the contactors
inside the traction battery

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00:23:17,660 --> 00:23:23,890
so it can send out its spicy voltage to all the spicy stuff
and the car can fully power on.

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If you listen closely as I power on my car,
you can hear those contactors clicking to life.

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[ka-chunk, followed by a buzz, some whirrs, etc]

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00:23:32,320 --> 00:23:34,921
There are usually even more contactors, though,

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such as the pair that connects the battery pack to the DC pins of the charge port.

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00:23:39,945 --> 00:23:45,746
You only want that to happen when the car
knows for sure that it’s plugged into a DC fast charger,

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00:23:45,746 --> 00:23:50,383
because having 400 (or even 800V) DC on these exposed pins

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00:23:50,383 --> 00:23:54,020
is not a fun way to learn what a DC arc flash is.

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00:23:54,020 --> 00:23:57,733
And depending on other components, there may be even more.

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When I plug my car in to charge, there’s a short symphony of clicking that occurs as the car locks the charge handle to the charge port,

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00:24:04,795 --> 00:24:07,354
the charger’s contactor clacks to life,

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00:24:07,354 --> 00:24:13,047
and the contactors inside the battery pack click
to allow the onboard charger to juice up the pack's cells.

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00:24:13,907 --> 00:24:14,407
[snap]

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00:24:14,825 --> 00:24:16,522
[clicketyclack Ka-Chunk]

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00:24:16,522 --> 00:24:17,809
[whirr]

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00:24:17,809 --> 00:24:18,456
[thunk]

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00:24:18,456 --> 00:24:19,207
[CLACK]

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00:24:20,094 --> 00:24:24,035
And it’s not over until the disembodied lady sings.

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00:24:24,035 --> 00:24:25,957
[seemingly from nowhere]
"Charging Started"

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00:24:25,957 --> 00:24:28,489
Anyway, I’ve been going on for long enough.

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00:24:28,489 --> 00:24:32,805
Who knew I could stretch a video
on contactors past the 20 minute mark?

326
00:24:33,743 --> 00:24:35,761
Oh, who am I kidding, we all knew this would happen.

327
00:24:35,761 --> 00:24:39,252
I’m really not cut out for this whole one minute video stuff.

328
00:24:40,139 --> 00:24:42,336
I am wearing shorts, though.

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00:24:42,336 --> 00:24:43,594
Anyway, thanks for watching.

330
00:24:44,481 --> 00:24:47,046
♫ flowingly smooth jazz ♫

331
00:24:50,462 --> 00:24:53,772
But what if you want to control something… big?

332
00:24:53,772 --> 00:24:55,594
Lll *cough* oops

333
00:24:55,594 --> 00:24:58,925
Or even switch power from one path to another.

334
00:24:58,925 --> 00:25:02,304
Often incorporating multiple sets of each compact tight…

335
00:25:03,738 --> 00:25:05,609
[the line was “contact type”]
Type!

336
00:25:05,609 --> 00:25:07,249
That’s why it’s so bulky.

337
00:25:08,579 --> 00:25:09,614
Bulky.

338
00:25:09,614 --> 00:25:11,648
I hope that sounded OK. I’m not recording that again.

339
00:25:11,648 --> 00:25:13,187
The large gap.

340
00:25:13,187 --> 00:25:15,321
The large gap ma… huh guboy

341
00:25:16,573 --> 00:25:18,642
It could be…

342
00:25:18,642 --> 00:25:21,706
land somewhere and stop flying.

343
00:25:21,706 --> 00:25:23,239
[there was a bug in the room]

344
00:25:23,239 --> 00:25:25,141
Good golly willikers gee.

345
00:25:25,141 --> 00:25:28,403
... it can safely run at its full power...

346
00:25:29,889 --> 00:25:31,102
Wrong!

347
00:25:31,102 --> 00:25:32,622
That’s not how the sentence worked.

348
00:25:33,874 --> 00:25:37,114
So I'm wondering how many people will have gotten the
"part of a complete breakfast" gag at the beginning.

349
00:25:37,114 --> 00:25:39,805
Is that mostly an American thing? I can very much see that being the case.

350
00:25:39,805 --> 00:25:44,699
In case you don't know, breakfast cereal commercials usually say that at the end with imagery of a bowl of your Lucky Charms or whatever beside a glass of orange juice,

351
00:25:44,699 --> 00:25:48,910
maybe some bacon and eggs, basically acknowledging that the cereal really shouldn't be the only thing you eat for breakfast.

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00:25:48,910 --> 00:25:49,581
And that's how my brain works!

